Day 1: Tbilisi balconies
Walk the old city, ride up toward Narikala and eat your first khinkali beneath the carved balconies.
An east-to-west drive through old capitals, high Caucasus roads, wine villages and the Black Sea.
Walk the old city, ride up toward Narikala and eat your first khinkali beneath the carved balconies.
Pick up the car and make the short drive to Mtskheta, with time for hilltop viewpoints before continuing north.
Follow the mountain road to Stepantsminda, stopping often for reservoirs, passes and roadside bakeries.
Reach Gergeti Trinity Church early, then keep the rest of the day for a short valley walk and a slow dinner.
Drive east for vineyard landscapes, cellar tastings and a guesthouse night among the vines.
Walk Sighnaghi's ramparts and compact old streets, with broad views toward the Caucasus.
Break the long westbound drive with local markets and a relaxed lunch; arrive near the Black Sea before dark.
End on Batumi's waterfront, with the boulevard, cafés and a sunset walk after returning the car.
May to June and September to October are the best months for the mountains and for Kakheti's wine harvest in autumn. July and August are warm and busy in Tbilisi and Batumi, and the Black Sea coast is at its liveliest. The Georgian Military Highway can be affected by snow from late autumn to spring, so check conditions before the Kazbegi leg.
A rental car gives freedom, but driving in Georgia can be demanding, with winding roads, livestock on the road and fast overtaking. A private driver is common and often good value. Marshrutkas, the minibuses, connect most towns. In Tbilisi, use ride apps and the metro. Check road conditions before each mountain day.
Book the Gergeti Trinity Church excursion with a local driver if you do not have a suitable car, since the track is rough. Reserve a guesthouse in Stepantsminda in the high season. For Kakheti, book a winery visit ahead, and arrange a driver if you plan to taste wine.
Pack layers for changeable mountain weather, a waterproof jacket and sturdy shoes. Churches and monasteries ask for covered shoulders and knees, and women may be given a headscarf or skirt to wear. Bring sun protection and a power bank. Offline maps are useful where the signal drops.
Try khachapuri, khinkali dumplings, badrijani nigvziani, mtsvadi and fresh bread from a tone oven. Georgian meals are shared, with many dishes on the table. The wine tradition goes back thousands of years, and qvevri wines are made in clay vessels. Pace yourself at a supra, the traditional feast.
Check entry rules for your passport. Georgia uses the lari, and cards work in cities but cash helps in villages. Agree prices with drivers before you go. Confirm the highway status and the weather before the mountain days.
Start early on Day 3. The Georgian Military Highway to Stepantsminda takes roughly three hours without stops, and the passes are better in morning light. Fill the tank before the mountains. On Day 4, go up to Gergeti at sunrise, when the church is quiet and Mount Kazbek is often clear, then rest. On Day 5, the drive to Kakheti is long, so aim to arrive for a late lunch at a winery. Day 7 is the longest drive, so start early.
The road is a main route and mostly paved, but it climbs over the Jvari Pass at around 2,400 meters. Snow, fog and landslides can close or slow it, mainly from late autumn to spring. Trucks queue on the bends, and sheep and cattle sometimes use the road. Check the weather and road status the evening before and again in the morning. Drive slowly, and do not overtake on blind corners.
A supra is a long feast led by a tamada, the toastmaster, who proposes toasts through the evening. If you are invited to one, accept, eat slowly, wait for the tamada to finish each toast before you drink, and pour small amounts if you want to pace yourself. Kakheti is the main wine region, and qvevri wine is made in buried clay vessels, an old method that gives amber wines a distinct taste. Ask your host about the grape varieties, such as Rkatsiteli and Saperavi.
Stay in Tbilisi's old city or nearby Sololaki for Day 1. In Stepantsminda, a guesthouse with a view of Kazbek is worth booking. In Kakheti, choose a family guesthouse in a village near Telavi or Sighnaghi, where dinner and wine are often included. Batumi has plenty of hotels along the boulevard.
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